It's the Journey....not the Destination

09 June 2026

Travel Day

Our flight from Aitutaki to Raro was a quick 50 minutes. The Air Raro desk wasn't open and we had to wait a bit. When it did open, we thought we were going to have to retrieve our checked bag and then go to the "International Side" to recheck out bag. Nope, the friendly desk agents said that they would take care of it right then. Great.

We had a decision to make - sit in the relatively comfy chairs, with the feel of the tropical breezes all around us OR go into the "International" terminal. Which was all of ten steps away. We chose to stay for a bit. It was a fun day to people watch. There was an Air New Zealand flight to Auckland that took off for Papeete shortly after our flight. I love listening to random conversations - " visas, overweight bags, how much alcohol you can bring back?." Gave me a chuckle.

We decided it was getting a bit warm and headed to Immigration checkpoint but were told, "Sorry, you'll have to wait. Immigration officers haven't arrived yet". Well, that was a first.

One scanner and a few people similar to our TSA and we made our way inside. This waiting area seemed much newer than the one we came through when we first arrived in to the Cook Islands.

Our flight was called by the same woman who checked my bags. Multi-purpose employees.

We all walked across the tarmac to our little plane and we actually left 20 minutes early. Apparently, if all passengers are on the plane, no reason to wait.

Arriving in Papeete, seemed familiar, because it was. It was the same route we took coming in from SFO but with a lot less people.

With our bags arriving together, we headed out, got a taxi and were met within minutes in front of our Airbnb.

This studio apartment was a good match for one night. Clean and only a five minute walk to the ferry terminal, where we'd be taking the ferry to Moorea.

10 June 2026

In the past few years, we've been on a few ferries. Most have been with a car in Europe. I find it interesting to see how each system works.
This trip we traveled with Aremiti Ferries.

It was truly a five minute walk to the ferry terminal from our Airbnb. We thought we had to go upstairs, as we could see people...but..the two elevators we could see were out of order and there was no way we were getting our "big ass" suitcase up those stairs. I left Jim with the bags and went hunting.

First, up the stairs but when I couldn't find the Aremiti desk, I asked and was directed back downstairs. I found the desk and also good news. We checked the bags right there.

From there, it was easy. We sat in the small cafe overlooking the harbor and had water and juice and at 12noon headed to the #4 lounge. We watched as the ferry from Moorea arrived, discharged it's passenger (people,motos and cars) and then we made our way onboard. There is quiet lounge in the forward area and a cafe to the rear which was much noisier. The trip took about 45 minutes - a little rolly but not bad.

Through our Airbnb host, we arranged for a driver and she was right there waiting for us. Now, getting baggage was not quite as organized as the system had been so far.

The bags came out on trolleys after all the cars and motos. The area was quite small and as the guys removed the bags, it's a free for all.

Arriving at our Airbnb was a pleasant surprise. I had seen photos on line but seeing such an awesome setting up close and personal is something else.

We were met by Vahn, a cute, petite Thai woman. She led us behind her home to the Cottage (aka Cocoon) in it's own private area.

After getting settled we found the closest grocery store and grabbed some staples - bread, cheese, wine and pasta. Jim did what Jim does well and made our simple ingredients into a lovely dinner. It felt great to just chill in our new "home" over looking Cook's Bay and we were treated with an awesome sunset.

11 June 2026

Headed to a little local cafe (Moz Cafe) for breakfast. This was our "scheduling" day, making reservations for our remaining days in Moorea. What will we do you ask?? Just wait and see.

12 June 2026

Up and out early. Well, 0900 - which has been early for us. We headed to the south end of Opunohu Bay and up the road into the mountains to find the Food & Cook Lab (https://www.foodandcooklab.com/) run by Stevenson and his lovely wife Audrey.

We had looked at this class while we were on the ship but decided to wait. That was a good decision since we found out from Susan (from Vancouver) that she had signed up and the class was cancelled. Don't know why.

We were the first to arrive and got to watch Stevenson roast a whole breadfruit. Shortly, the class was joined by a couple from Japan and one from France. And then....came the group from.. you guessed it - The Paul Gauguin. I recognized the water bottles.

It was a great class. We got down to chopping and cooking for the next three hours, ending with a feast of tuna, Poisson Cru, roasted breadfruit, Paw Paw which is actually papaya, coconut chips, banana cake and probably more that I've forgotten. It really was a great class and I highly recommend it for a morning of fun and also learning about the local culture. Stevenson grew up on Moorea but his family is from Aitutaki. He has lived and worked all over the world but lives and farms in Moorea and is passionate about sustaining the area.

Another reason it was a good day to take the class is because it rained all day.

13 June 2026

Up for an even earlier day. We had to be in front of Cook's Bay Hotel, which is across the street, by 0800 to wait for the pick up from Franckyfranck 4x4 Truck Tours. We were picked up first. Along the way we picked up two French couples. An older couple (probably younger than us) from Toulouse and a young honeymoon couple from Quimper, Brittany - both places we've traveled to and quite enjoyed. With my limited French, their limited English and a good bit of pantomime - it was great day.

Our first stop was Magic Mountain. This is a privately owned property (entry is $2 pp). Some people hike it and others (like us) utilize the 4x4 trucks. The view is spectacular. Out to sea there was brilliant sunshine, while the mountains behind us were shrouded in clouds and rainbows.

Yes, it was another rainy day but there were rainbows at every turn, except at the Belvedere. We were glad we'd taken the time to drive up our first day.

Along the trip, we stopped and tried local fruit, jams and local spirits. Our last stop was the local distillery. Tastings were abundant and I was glad we weren't driving. We came home with some Passion fruit liquor.

It was a half day tour which actually ended about 2pm. I had read about a food truck (Pura Vita) which was fortunately right where we were left off. The little bits of fruit were just not holding us, but we had dinner reservations at Cook's Bay Hotel for dinner so we got an order of Fish Tacos to share. OMG - SO GOOD!! Those reviews did not disappoint.

Off to Cooks Bay Hotel for dinner which unfortunately - did disappoint. It is in a beautiful location, right on the bay. and we had reservations but from our first interactions it felt like we were just a bother. We were seated and waited for 20 minutes before we were even approached and then it was for our whole order. No drinks first. We ordered water - it never came. They never checked back. Jim said his Fish Burger was good - my tuna was uninspired and under seasoned. I don't usually complain but for $100 for dinner we expected more. The potential is there. So if you're going to Moorea - head to Pura Vita across the street (only open til 2pm).

14 June 2026

Sundays are always quiet in the islands - all of them. It's church/family day.

We again, grabbed lunch at Pura Vita - I was so happy is was open. Jim had Fish Tacos again - he must have really liked them. I got a dish that I had read about in the reviews - Raw tuna salad with olive tapenade and feta, dressed in a vinaigrette. It definitely lived up to the hype.

Most of our time at the Cocoon has been spent on the porch. Not today, rain and wind...alot of wind.

15 June 2026

A ton of wind overnight and more rain. So much so that the hammock and heavy metal frame was picked up and thrown down the hill. It was crazy windy.

We had been on the waitlist for local food tour but it was not to to be.

BUT...we did end up getting a great sunset.

16 June 2026

Our last full day in Moorea and we got in two things we love to do - snorkel and sail.

On the ship, we also had a sunset sail cancelled but that would not happen today.

Voila Moorea https://voilamoorea.com/en/voilamoorea/ worked with us and rescheduled us from a morning snorkel to the afternoon and then right into the sunset sail. Voila's boat Taboo is a small wooden catamaran which is a perfect fit for six people. For our snorkel trip there were only four of us. Jim, myself and a honeymoon couple from Italy.

On the way out of Opunohu Bay, we were greeted by a pod of spinner dolphins. Jade and the captain (a quiet young man), were very surprised. It was not the season or time of day to see them.

In some ways this was similar to the snorkeling trip we took from the ship. BUT, this was much more personal. Yes, we went to the area to swim with the rays and sharks, but instead of being with 50 of our closest friends - there were maybe eight people. I'd had issues with my underwater camera (user error) so I didn't bring it. I put my phone in the "waterproof" bag which I had used prior. Well... it leaked. I had handed it back to Jade, our lovely guide. I didn't notice until I got back on board that it was wet...Bummer.

Our 2nd stop was a different Coral Garden than our previous trip. Jade guided us through and we got a lesson in "Fish 101" - really interesting.

Stop 3 were the tikis.....the what!!! Off shore, north of the Protestant Church Papetoai there are six or seven stones, or maybe up to twelve tikis carved out of volcanic rock by local artist Tihoti Guy and placed in different locations in 1998 as a tribute to Polynesian ancestors. There is local legend about these stones. The following is from the internet.

While the modern installation is a tribute, local legends recount a different story of survival. According to the tale, when missionaries arrived in Moorea, they constructed a Protestant church on the site of a sacred marae (temple grounds) and forced the locals to either destroy their tiki monuments or toss them into the ocean. Instead of destroying them, the inhabitants outsmarted the missionaries by intentionally and strategically sinking the tikis in the shallow lagoon exactly across from the church, allowing them to remain safely hidden

The other snorkel tour we were on never mentioned these stones. Jade had to dive down about ten feet and wipe away sand so that we could more
clearly see the images. It was very cool.

Heading back in we were again greeted by the dolphins.

We stayed on board and switched crew and passengers. Our Captain...Seb (Sebastian), a French couple and American honeymooners - Christina and Cuba (or Kuba - not sure) are from the DC area.

Even though we didn't get much of a sunset we had a great sail.

All and all a perfect way (IMHO) to end our day and our whole trip.

Because of my "phone mishap" the only pic I have of this glorious day was one that Jade graciously took and sent....Thank you!!
And yes, even after two days in rice, I did need to replace the phone when we got home

17 June 2026

It proved to be a long day. Goodbye's to Vahn (she is such a lovely lady). Ferry to Papeete. We ended up lunch at the Brassiere - this time a better experience. Lunch was good. They let us hang and watch soccer until our Airbnb was ready. Since our flight didn't depart until midnight, we decided on renting our Airbnb again. Even at $130 it was cheaper than a day pass at any of the hotel. We both got in a quick nap and a refreshing shower before heading to the airport. The flight was easy. It was our first time at LAX in many years - boy has that changed. It's undergoing massive renovations.

Thankfully all flights on time.. On to our next adventure!!! Costa Rica!!